Wellness

Spotlight on Spots

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The February issue of DAYSPA outlines the common problem of hyperpigmentation—which occurs when the basal layer of the epidermis produces excess melanin—and how you can help clients overcome it. But the one thing we weren't able to include with the story was a full list of every ingredient that battles the condition—simply because there are just too many of them.

Here's a roundup of the various components that manufacturers use when formulating lightening/brightening products, along with some testimonials from the experts themselves:

Arbutin/alpha-arbutin inhibits tyrosinase to prevent the formation of melanin. Alpha-arbutin is a form of hydroquinone (HQ), while arbutin is extracted from plants such as bearberry, blueberry and cranberry. Some sources speculate that alpha-arbutin may be stronger than arbutin from plant extracts.

Azelaic acid is derived from yeast, targets, and destroys abnormal melanocytes, and indirectly suppresses tryrosinase. Howard Murad, M.D., associate clinical professor of medicine (dermatology) at UCLA and founder of Murad, calls it "a good antioxidant that reduces melanin production—depending on the amount in the formulation." Some studies have indicated that at sufficient levels, it's comparable to 2% HQ—the only ingredient the Food and Drug Administration has approved for sale as a skin lightener. (A concentration of 2% is the highest any over-the-counter brightener can contain.)

Ferula foetida, an extract from the giant fennel root, slows enzyme activity—which inhibits melanin formation. "It helps brighten skin," says Annet King, director of global education at Dermalogica.

Hexylresorcinol, a chemical with anesthetic and antiseptic properties, is a common ingredient in throat lozenges. Recent studies on this compound have showed lightening effects similar to 2% HQ.

Hydroxycinnamic acid, a plant-derived antioxidant, is a brightening compound that acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor.

Kojic acid, derived from fungus, suppresses tyrosinase activity. Both lab-based and human research show that it has significant pigment-inhibiting effects. One downside is the potential it has for skin sensitization, according to the European Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products.

Licorice root extract is an antioxidant that helps scavenge free radicals and fight melanin formation. "I like it because it's a good anti-inflammatory agent,' Murad says.

Lumiskin/diacetyl boldine is a proprietary tyrosinase inhibitor derived from Chilean tree bark. It works by stabilizing tyrosinase in its inactive form. "I use Lumiskin along with niacinamide and antioxidants to keep skin color even without irritation," says Naila Malik, M.D., dermatologist and formulator of Skin 2 Skin Care.

Lumixyl, a proprietary complex of oliopeptides recently developed by researchers at Stanford University, shows promise as a potent tyrosinase inhibitor in preliminary trials. It's currently being studied in wider trials and is available only through physicians.

Mulberry extract, from the roots of the paper mulberry plant, inhibits tyrosinase activity when it's present in significant amounts.

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, interferes with the transfer of pigment-filled melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. "I've been impressed with the results it has shown," Murad says.

Oligopeptide-34, a proprietary peptide, reduces alpha-MSH activity and inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanosome transfer. "It prevents cellular discoloration for unsurpassed skin brightening," King says.

Phytic acid, another name for rice extract, chelates copper, which inhibits step two of melanogenesis.

Retinoid, also known as vitamin A, is "an antioxidant that can help protect against melanin oxidation," says Benjamin Fuchs, RPh, a registered pharmacist, nutritionist, cosmetic chemist and formulator for Sanítas Skincare. It also encourages cell turnover, which can diminish epidermal melanin.

"Topical retinoids have a role in reducing pigmentation, but they're especially effective when used in combination with other bleaching agents," Malik adds. "Effective levels require a prescription, and patients need to be aware that they can cause irritation and even paradoxical post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation."

Vitamin C, whose alternative names include L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, is a naturally occurring antioxidant. "Stabilized derivatives of vitamin C can scavenge free radicals that cause erratic melanocyte activity, as well as inhibit oxidation steps along the biosynthetic pathway," King says. "They have also been shown to have some ability to inhibit tyrosinase synthesis and activity."

Undecylenoyl phenylalanine, an amino acid derivative, prevents the start of melanin synthesis by attacking MSH.

Zinc glycinate stimulates the formation of an antioxidant protein that binds copper, thereby inhibiting tyrosinase. —Linda W. Lewis

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