SPA SERVICES: Smoothing Deep Wrinkles

Skincare science now provides more ways than ever to “de-crease” your spa clients’ complexions.

Power Couples

A simple equation: equipment plus product equals better results. A multifaceted approach is needed for minimizing deep wrinkles and then maintaining progress, and a multitude of product options enable you to develop signature in-spa treatments as well as home-care regimens.

Guinot’s director of education Elizabeth Murchison advocates such combination programs. “For instance, microcurrent stimulates ATP, and our company’s home-care product contains ATP to extend the effect, stimulating the cells that become dormant with time,” she says.

For more than 25 years, Pat Lam, co-founder and vice president of Skin Care Consultants, has been using a deep microdermabrasion treatment in conjunction with the embryonic extracts in her company’s Instant Skin Serum to produce results. “The skin looks youthful and radiant, and there is an instant reduction of wrinkles,” she says. “It is available for physicians as an injectable, but estheticians can use the topical application of this serum and still get amazing results.”

Kate Somerville, founder of the Kate Somerville Clinic in Los Angeles, often recommends a combination of facials and laser treatments for clients with mature skin. “Pearl Fractional is a procedure that combines two types of lasers: Pearl and Titan treatments,” she says. “It vaporizes and removes damaged tissue, and it’s great for acne scarring as well as deep lines, enlarged pores, pigmentation and skin laxity. Most people only need one treatment to see quite dramatic results. LED treatments are also great for antiaging results.”

Even more invasive strategies such as surgery require a combination of techniques for ongoing results. As San Francisco plastic surgeon Dr. Edward Miranda reminds patients, “After structural surgery such as a face, neck or brow lift, tissue has been repositioned but aging will continue to occur. We haven’t stopped the aging process. Prevention and maintenance are still needed.” Miranda sometimes recommends to a surgical patient that she graduate to injectables, or to spa-level treatments such as ultrasound, coupled with a skincare regimen.

Enhanced product penetration is a key advantage to the equipment/product approach. “Without delivery, it is impossible for active ingredients to penetrate, due to nature’s own way of way of protecting the skin,” reminds Sonia Boghosian, president of Bio Jouvance. She notes that, because every inch of skin has more than 2,500 pores, it’s helpful to use products with ingredients containing small molecules, such as those found in essential oils and CoQ10. “Stem cells also have the ability to penetrate deep into cellular layers of skin,” Boghosian adds.

And some devices can do much to facilitate delivery of topical products. Onyx’s Pulse Electroporation System employs a transdermal technology specifically designed to help deliver large-size molecular skincare ingredients into skin. At Belleza and Beauty, radio frequency treatments are used to help maximize penetration of a complementary topical cream that combines hyaluronic acid, collagen, grape seed extract, green tea and rose extract.

“A good push from equipment can be beneficial,” acknowledges BiON’s Lockhart. “Mild electrical current, radio frequency, LED, microneedling, magnetically generated channels and even massage can enhance penetration and provide ‘pulse’ treatment levels that the patient cannot achieve at home.”

Wendei Spale-Smith, owner of Peace of Mind Skin and Body Care in Studio City, California, combines product with equipment for optimal results. “I incorporate my chosen antiaging serum into my Advanced Ultrasonic Facial, to aid penetration into the skin,” Spale-Smith says. She then sends her clients home with the home-care version to maintain results.

The effectiveness of the product/equipment “power couple” justifies the initial investment, say experts, with the right antiaging equipment quickly paying for itself and yielding substantial profits for your spa. As Silhouet-Tone’s Tsoklis points out, “These combined treatments produce a high-impact result that clients are willing to pay for. And the technology does not replace existing services. It provides expanded service to present clientele, but it also attracts new customers.”