SPA SERVICES: Smoothing Deep Wrinkles

Skincare science now provides more ways than ever to “de-crease” your spa clients’ complexions.

Product Delivery

But can topicals even penetrate enough to have an effect? “This is the $64,000 question,” says BION’s Lockhart. “Some product ingredients can be ‘loaded’ into the epidermis and successfully migrated into the dermis where they can have their effect upon the cells and chemistry orchestrating significant repair and ‘remodeling.’ Other ingredients don’t need deep penetration to achieve their desired impact upon the dermis.”

“A product delivery system is extremely important to a formula,” says Christian Jurist, global educational director for Pevonia. “Such a system will allow the specified ingredient(s) to penetrate immediately and deeply into the skin when it may otherwise be more difficult, or impossible, due to molecular size or the skin’s protelytic activity.“

“In recent years the formulation of active ingredients has become more sophisticated and the molecular size of ingredients has become smaller,” explains Karen Asquith, national director of education for G.M. Collin. “For example, in the case of peptides, lipidic components now act as chaperones to allow them to pass through the skin’s hydrolipidic barrier.”

Depending upon the technology, ingredient(s) may also be able to be placed on a time release, thus introducing a much more effective, strong ingredient into the skin at a progressive pace in order to prevent irritation. For a simple yet effective strategy, Dasha Saian, operations manager of SAIAN, recommends applying a layer of peptide-rich cream over a hyaluronic acid-based serum. “This ensures the serum doesn’t evaporate, and provides a two-punch wrinkle-busting effect,” she explains.