SPA SERVICES: Smoothing Deep Wrinkles

Skincare science now provides more ways than ever to “de-crease” your spa clients’ complexions.

Topical Conversation

Given the complex nature of wrinkle formation, can we really expect topical treatments to make a dent? Yes, say the experts—but plan on using more than one. “A topical rejuvenation product needs to address damage to the skin’s microvascular system, which inhibits the supply of vital nutrients, oxygen and the removal of wastes—all of which promotes the speed and degree of skin damage and visual aging,” explains Glen Lockhart, senior director of research and development for BiON Research skincare products.

“But there is also the issue of collagen repair and production, which requires the presence of another grouping of chemicals in the skin,” Lockhart continues. “Additionally increasing the skin’s population of collagen-producing fibroblast cells can be achieved, but this requires still another assortment of biochemicals. Then, stimulating the fibroblast cells into pre-collagen production requires even more ingredients. There are also co-factors and co-enzymes that must be present. So at some point, a single product cannot contain all of these ingredients at a therapeutic level or volume.”

The challenge in sticking to topicals only, then, is the need for a combination of agents that provide active ingredients working in tandem to address the problem: Antioxidants, retinoids, peptides, stem cells, minerals, botanicals and enzymes are among the star players that work to repair, stimulate and rebuild skin. “My philosophy is to not combine all products into one package, though,” says Gül Zone, president of DermAware. “It is better to isolate each active in highly concentrated products. Mature skin needs a balanced diet of different wrinkle busters, used intermittently.”

That is not to say that products can be combined willy-nilly. “They must be carefully selected so they work in harmony, rather than negate effects or cause harm,” cautions DeHaven. And, as with any multi-faceted protocol, cooperation of the client is a major factor.