Vitamin-Fortified Skin

By Daryn Eller

A healthy diet is only the first step to proper skin nutrition. Here's how to make sure your clients get their daily dose of topical ABCs.

Why does an apple a day keep the doctor away?

The fruit is full of vitamins—the essential nutritional components that boost immunity, maintain cellular structure and keep all organs operating as they should. Skincare specialists agree that a vitamin-rich diet can improve the condition of the dermis.

However, there are limitations to this type of inside-out treatment for certain conditions. "The skin is the end of the line for the vascular system, which means that vitamins from food have to go through other parts of the body before they arrive at the epidermis," says Glen Lockhart, head of research and development for BiON Research. "Very few vitamins make it."

The good news is that vitamins penetrate the skin when applied topically. Those most commonly used in formulations—A, B, C, E and K—have a good track record. They improve the appearance of the skin and help eradicate conditions such as acne and rosacea. While each active ingredient has its own benefits, they also work synergistically. This is why many products contain a combination of vitamins.

The team effort helps ward off free radicals. "As a skincare formulator, I like to create what I call a cascade effect of protection," says Gül Zone, president and founder of DermAware. "While one vitamin may be chosen as the 'star' of the product, one or several more act as the 'supporting cast.' It's there to make the star look good and perform at its best. For example, vitamins A and C are very sensitive to oxidation and require a lot of support."

Many vitamins serve a dual purpose. They help preserve formulations, while also working as active ingredients. "Vitamin E is a good example," says Ben Kaminsky, founder of B. Kamins, Chemist. "We often add tocopherol [vitamin E] to a product for its ability to prevent spoiling, but also for its ability to fight the free-radical damage that causes aging."

While vitamins have been included in moisturizers, serums and cleansers for years, skincare formulators are continuing to find new uses for them. Results-oriented products that target specific problems are the wave of the future. Following are the five most common skincare problems and how vitamins can help alleviate your clients' symptoms.

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See previous article, Pretty Pedis