What’s New: “Hot” Ingredients

Can all so-called “high tech” skincare products really be true to their PR-issued claims? In the March issue of DAYSPA, writer Monica Schuloff-Smith helps to separate fact from fuss, sharing straightforward information about the action and ineffectiveness of some of today’s most-talked-about ingredient powerhouses, from antioxidants and botanicals to peptides and hormones. Here, we continue the discussion with some very frank opinions from the industry’s top skincare experts, along with their favorite picks from today’s ingredient choices.

Chandra Bredel, national educator for SAMPAR

“Day spa owners really need to understand that though an ingredient may be hot in New York or L.A., or even in another country, it may not translate to their local area. Also, they must insist that the vendor supplying the service or products provide clinical data that supports their claims. In-the-know day spa owners do a little research before they add a high-tech treatment because they know that a little pain before the purchase will save them.”

Bredel’s ingredient(s) of choice: “There are some interesting ingredients from seaweeds such as Sphaceloria scoparia and sea vegetables, sea cucumber and sea whip. Sphaceloria scoparia is a brown algae that has been clinically proven to prevent the formation of new cellulite. Sea cucumber is wonderful for lifting and firming, as well as acting as a high level anti-inflammatory. Sea whip has been shown to strengthen the skin’s ability to repair damage from UV exposure.”

Sam Dhatt, cosmeceutical chemist, founder of DermaQuest Skin Therapy

“A day spa owner should look f0or supporting documents that prove the ingredient can perform as it claims. The science behind the product is important in today’s skincare market,” he says.

Dhatt’s ingredient(s) of choice: “I think peptides are still the hottest ingredients in the market at this time. Science and research has determined that biochemical functions in our skin can be replaced by very specific amino acid sequences to create certain peptides, which has lead to research in how we can use peptides to manipulate certain functions in the skin. One new and ‘hot’ ingredient that will hit the skincare market soon is a skin-lightening peptide that can replace a 4% hydroquinone.”

Karoline Kanani, product manager for G.M. Collin Skin Care

“ ‘Hot’ ingredients are always appealing to everyone, but it is wiser to make sure that they come with some data to authenticate them. Many formulations on the market, don’t come with any proof they work.”

Kanani’s ingredient(s) of choice: “There are several ‘hot’ ingredients. Most of them work through protecting, soothing skin and restoring skin homeostasis and, more recently, through acting on cutaneous functional recovery. Peptides are still very big and there are always new ones coming out on the market. We are working a lot on extending cellular longevity through different strategies.”

Mark Lees, Ph.D., owner of Mark Lees Skin Care

 “Spa owners should try the treatments themselves to see if they have good results. Also, remember that any skin treatment is only as good as the upkeep products for home care—home care is 99% of the success of any program.”

Lees’ ingredient(s) of choice: “I hate to be a parrot, but I am very excited about peptide technologies! They can help tighten, firm, de-puff, relax the appearance of wrinkles, and there are probably many more we have not discovered!”

Howard Murad, M.D., dermatologist, founder of Murad

“Today’s skincare professionals have all kinds of options to address their clients’ needs. This keeps everyone in the industry learning and growing. It’s a very exciting time in skin care.”

Murad’s ingredient(s) of choice: “One of my favorites is Durian extract. This fruit provides a variety of fatty acids that have multiple benefits including adding moisture and protecting the skin’s barrier function. Durian pulp is a SUPERFRUIT (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, hydrator) for skin (and overall health).”

Caroline Rushworth, director of education for SOTHYS

“Do your market research. The actives may be ‘hot,’ but the results and/or treatment target may not be appropriate for your main customer base. Ask whether

“Does the treatment have a home care program to support the results of the in spa service? Are there proven results to support the treatment?” adds Rushworth. “What other treatments are present in the market featuring these hot actives?”

Rushworth’s ingredient(s) of choice: “Look for powerful antioxidants such as idebenone, actives that stimulate growth factors, and probiotics and prebiotics. The research into these actives is ongoing and proving very exciting in terms of antiaging and inflammatory benefits. The study on ‘neurocosmetics’ and, of course, peptides continues and will remain on the forefront of the cosmetic industry as more results are proven and more peptides are discovered.”

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