What’s New: Oiled Again

Just as skin- and haircare products have evolved to deliver more health benefits to clients, massage oils are becoming treatments in themselves, providing therapists and their clients more than slip during a massage treatment. DAYSPA contributor Monica Schuloff Smith recently checked in with Anne Williams, a licensed massage therapist and education program director for Associated Bodywork & Massage Professionals (www.abmp.com) on the subject.

“A variety of exotic vegetable oils are entering the marketplace and many are perfectly suitable for massage,” Williams confirmed, though she added that some are best used in moderation or in combination with other oils because of their high cost or viscous consistency. Here is Williams’ list of massage oils to consider.

Almond oil (Prunus amygdalis var. dulcis) is pale yellow in color with a light odor and medium-weight texture. It contains approximately 60% oleic acid, linoleic acid and vitamin E.

Apricot kernel oil (Prunus armeniaca) is yellow in color with a prominent odor and lightweight texture. Avoid the refined oil, which has a pale yellow color and no odor. The unrefined oil contains between 55% to 70% oleic acid, linoleic acid, gamma-linoleic acid, and vitamins A and B.

Avocado oil (Persea americana) is olive green in color with a strong odor and heavy texture. If an avocado oil is pale yellow in color and odorless, it has been refined. The unrefined oil contains between 55% to 75% oleic acid, linoleic acid, and vitamins A, C and E. Avocado oil tends to be expensive but is particularly useful for stretch marks, dehydrated skin, scars and mature skin.

Canola oil (Brassica napus) is pale yellow, with a light odor and lightweight texture. It contains oleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, and linoleic acid. Check to ensure that the canola oil is natural, organic and unrefined. Heavily processed canola oil is often used as an ingredient in cheaper massage and body products.

Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) Cocoa butter is pale yellow and has an odor reminiscent of chocolate (and is used to make chocolate). It’s solid at room temperature but light to medium weight when melted and applied to the body warm or mixed with other oils. Cocoa butter contains oleic, stearic, linoleic and palmitic acids. Because it contains high levels of saturated fats, it doesn’t absorb into the skin but forms a micro-layer on top of the skin, which is useful for preventing moisture loss in dry skin types.

Coconut oil (Cocus nucifera) is pale yellow, with a coconut odor, and solid at room temperature but medium weight when melted. It’s difficult to find raw coconut oil; the product most often sold is refined or fractionated (to keep it liquid). Like cocoa butter, coconut oil is high in saturated fats and doesn’t absorb into the skin. This oil causes skin irritation in some individuals.

Evening primrose oil (Oenothera biennis) is expensive, yellow in color, with little odor and a heavy, almost sticky quality. It contains oleic acid, linoleic acid and high amounts of gamma-linolenic acid. Because of its high gamma-linolenic acid content it has been used in the treatment of eczema, premenstrual syndrome, menopause, high blood pressure and arthritis, among other conditions. This oil is often used as a spot treatment during facial massage or added to other oils to boost their gamma-linolenic acid content.

Hazelnut oil (Corylus avellana) is inexpensive, yellow in color, with a mild nutty odor and a lightweight texture. It contains approximately 65% to 85% oleic acid and is high in vitamin E.

Hemp seed oil (Cannabis sativa) is expensive, green in color, with a medium nutty odor and a heavyweight texture. It contains approximately 57% oleic acid and is high in omega-3 and -6 fatty acids including gamma-linolenic acid. Hemp seed oil has anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties, making it especially useful in massage.

Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) is expensive, bright yellow with a light odor and a medium-weight texture. Jojoba is a liquid wax that’s stable at room temperature. It mimics sebum, the body’s natural moisturizer, and so is useful for all skin types. It’s believed to regulate sebum production in oily skin when used for extended periods of time. It contains eicosanoic acid, myristic acid and oleic acid.

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