What’s New: Oiled Again
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Kukui nut oil (Aleurites moluccana) is expensive, pale yellow with a light odor and a lightweight texture. It contains high amounts of linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, vitamin A and E. It’s noted as healing for sunburn, chapped skin, eczema and psoriasis.
Macadamia oil (Macadamia integrifola) is expensive, pale yellow with a light odor and a lightweight texture. Like jojoba oil, it mimics sebum and is useful for all skin types. It’s high in palmitoleic acid, omega-3 and -6 fatty acids.
Mustard seed oil (Brassica juncea) is pale yellow with a distinctive odor and a lightweight texture. It contains oleic and palmitic acids. It’s often used in ayurvedic medicine as a heating oil for muscle stiffness and soreness. Fixed mustard seed oil should not be confused with the steam-distilled volatile essential oil of mustard seed, which is highly toxic and to be avoided in aromatherapy.
Olive oil (Olea europaea) is green with a distinctive odor and a heavy/sticky texture. It contains high amounts (65% to 80%) of oleic acid and is notable for its anti-inflammatory properties.
Pumpkin seed oil (Curcurbita pepo) is expensive, with a deep green color, distinctive nutty odor and lightweight texture. It contains 21% to 41% oleic acid, zinc (a biocatalyst for the skin) and antioxidants.
Rose hip seed oil (Rosa rubiginosa & other species) is expensive, light yellow-red with a distinctive odor and heavy/sticky texture. The CO2 extraction (an extraction method wherein CO2 gas turns liquid under high pressure and acts as a solvent and then turns back to a gas when the pressure is removed) is preferable to the solvent-extracted oil. It contains oleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid and is used for wrinkles and scar tissue. It can be added to lighter-weight oils to boost their benefits and properties.
Safflower oil (Carthamus tinctorius) is inexpensive, yellow with a mild odor and lightweight texture. It contains 72% to 80% oleic acid and high amounts of linolenic acid.
Sesame oil (Sesamum inducum) is yellow with a distinctive toasted nut odor and medium-weight texture. It contains linoleic acid, vitamin B, vitamin E and antioxidants. One of the primary oils used in ayurveda and often the base of taila (Indian medicated massage oils), it’s considered warming and penetrating.
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Shea butter (Vitellaria paradoxa - Butyrospermum parkii is the old name) is cream-colored with a distinctive odor and solid at room temperature. It must be melted for use in massage. It’s high in oleic acid, saturated fats, vitamins E and A, and noted as particularly healing for damaged skin and hair.
Sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus) is inexpensive, yellow with a mild odor and medium-weight texture. It contains 60% oleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, and vitamins A and E.
Walnut oil (Juglans regia) is yellow with a mild odor and medium-weight texture. It contains alpha-linolenic acid, linoleic acid and vitamin E.
Wheat germ oil (Triticum vulgare) is dark orange with a distinctive odor and heavy/sticky texture. It contains linoleic acid, oleic acid and vitamins A, B and E. It’s the highest oil source of vitamin E and so acts as a powerful antioxidant. It’s often used as a spot treatment or added to other oils to extend their shelf life and boost their properties and benefits. It’s particularly useful for wrinkled skin, scars, sun damage and stretch marks.
(*For more specifics on massage oils, look out for Smith’s article, “Smoothing the Way,” in the February 2008 issue of DAYSPA.)
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